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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary honour.